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Dahlias
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THE AYLETT RECIPE FOR BEST RESULTS...

Planting Dahlias

Normally Dahlias are planted 60-90cm (2-3ft) apart, except for bedders at 40cm(15ins) apart. They thrive in most soils, but like moisture and good drainage. Do not plant before frost danger is past, generally about the third or fourth week in May. Dig in compost or manure, in winter on the site where they are to grow.

 

Planting out

Plant in a good quality compost1. Plant in a good quality compost, firstly, because it retains moisture to help plant growth, and secondly, when the tuber is lifted in autumn, compost falls away, leaving a clean tuber.

Make a hole 23cm square and 23cms deep and put in half a bucket of compost, and insert a strong cane or stake in the centre of the hole.

Remove pot, but do not disturb the root ball. 2. A good watering should be given some hours before you plant out. Remove pot, but do not disturb the root ball.

With a hand trowel, plant next to the stake firming well3. With a hand trowel, plant next to the stake firming well. Plant so that the final soil level is just below the lowest leaves - and water in. Three days later hoe in around the plant 60g (2oz.)Fish, Blood & Bone or Vitax Q4 and water in again.

Remember to label each plant.

Care of your Dahlias

Feed your dahlias every 14 days with liquid feed, such as Miracle Gro or liquid Growmore. Mulch with straw, peat, or garden compost in dry weather. Pests that attack Dahlias are: - Aphid (green or black), Caterpillars, and Red Spider, to control these spray with Bug Clear every two weeks. Earwigs can be controlled with Nippon, Thrips can be controlled with Organic Pest Control (concentrate), Capsid with Provado Pest-Free plus many other Dahlia pests. Dahlias also are prone to mildew and again spray every two weeks with Fungus Fighter.

Stopping

‘Stopping’ is the removal of the growing tip when about four pairs of leaves have been formed

1. ‘Stopping’ is the removal of the growing tip when about four pairs of leaves have been formed. Nip out the tip just above the third pair of leaves, but avoid squashing the stem.

Strong side shoots will develop at the leaf joints

2. Strong side shoots will develop at the leaf joints, to form the framework of the plant.

 

Disbudding

Remove all buds that appear before early JulyRemove all buds that appear before early July. Disbudding can take place from mid-July onwards. Retain the terminal bud but remove side shoots ‘A’ (see illustration) and’B’ from the two upper leaf axils on each branch.

Feeding to make good tubers

During first week in August, feed equal parts Sulphate of Potash and Superphosphate. Apply at the rate of one handful sprinkled around the roots of each plant and water in well.

Lifting and Storage of Tubers

Dahlia tubers should not be lifted until after a frost. They should be cut down to 6ins from soil level and carefully dug up. Take care not to damage the crown as it is from this point that next year’s shoots emerge.

Tubers should be dried and it is advisable to stand them upside down in order to allow moisture in the stems to drain away. They should be treated with yellow sulphur and put in wooden boxes, packed with peat or sand to stop tubers drying out.

Keep in a frost-free place. Most garden sheds and garages are not frostproof. They should not be kept in too warm a place as they will shrivel, or a cold damp situation where they will rot. It is advisable to examine tubers several times in the winter and if, any trace of mildew is found, the infected part should be cut away. Dust the wound with yellow sulphur.

 

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